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Barrel Break-In
Lots of opinions regarding barrel break-in.
What are your thoughts/opinions? Anyone ever use the electric bore cleaner? Found the below article on a Google search very interesting, especially considering that my very experienced Dealer/Smith recommended putting 200 rapid-fire rounds down range then using an oil to seal pores in metal. He said the barrel would get almost "white hot", but would be a good break-in procedure (7.62x51 in M1A) Separate considerations for chrome lined barrels (ie. AR's) http://www.snipercountry.com/Article...el_BreakIn.asp |
Re: Barrel Break-In
Please dont follow "rapid fire" break-in advice as high heat and pressure cause throat erosion. Just clean before firing, then clean after few rounds and repeat or whatever manufacturer suggests. I'm not too keen on the rigorous barrel break in fads, but with proper cleaning equipment and procedure will not harm rifle.
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Re: Barrel Break-In
I had a custom rifle built on a Remington 700 action with a premium match-grade Shilen barrel. The manufacturers break-in instructions were: shoot ten, clean, shoot ten, clean...done.
I tend to agree with Gale McMillan...just shoot and clean as you would regularly. For me that would be about every 20-25 shots--if I am shooting for accuracy. And do not scrub the bore excessively. Let the solvent do the work. Run a wet patch slowly down the tube, leave it wet for several minutes, patch it dry. Repeat until patch is clean. |
Re: Barrel Break-In
Thanks Folks
Any suggestions re. solvents/cleaners Kinda surprised about his info on nylon cleaning brushes...but, yeah, it does make sense. Don't do it. Here's a thread I found over on an SKS board re. Electronic Cleaning. I think this might be helpful to those purchasing some of the older surplus rifles.I think I've seen info. that implies that there may be commercial electronic cleaners. I've never seen them though. http://www.sksboards.com/smf/index.php?topic=28388.0 |
Re: Barrel Break-In
I don't use ammonia based solvents as I think they are too harsh...usually just Hoppe's Bench Rest Nitro solvent or even plain old "No.9"...
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An aerosol gun scrubber when needed. |
Re: Barrel Break-In
I use a device called a boresnake.
I think Wally world carries them. http://www.google.com/search?hl=en&r...+snake&spell=1 |
Re: Barrel Break-In
typically if you shoot 10 clean, shoot 10 clean that should be good. Just be sure to use a good brush and and try to feed from throat end instead of the muzzle end. A boresnake makes the break-in process EASY.
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Rapid Fire causes more 'Heat' and forces the metal to expand quickly. While on and old gun with 1,000's of rounds through it won't hurt - a new one will be strained. Sure, it might not hurt.........but there's almost NO benefit from doing this on purpose. JMVHO, -AD |
Re: Barrel Break-In
I would like to get to the bottom of the Break in talk.
How can cleaning after 10 shots 2 times help increase long term accuracy? I want to PooPoo this as somebodys urbanmyth but I'll admit I do not know. E-A |
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Here is the latest from Shilen's website: How should I break-in my new Shilen barrel? Break-in procedures are as diverse as cleaning techniques. Shilen, Inc. introduced a break-in procedure mostly because customers seemed to think that we should have one. By and large, we don't think breaking-in a new barrel is a big deal. All our stainless steel barrels have been hand lapped as part of their production, as well as any chrome moly barrel we install. Hand lapping a barrel polishes the interior of the barrel and eliminates sharp edges or burrs that could cause jacket deformity. This, in fact, is what you are doing when you break-in a new barrel through firing and cleaning. Here is our standard recommendation: Clean after each shot for the first 5 shots. The remainder of the break-in is to clean every 5 shots for the next 50 shots. During this time, don't just shoot bullets down the barrel during this 50 shot procedure. This is a great time to begin load development. Zero the scope over the first 5 shots, and start shooting for accuracy with 5-shot groups for the next 50 shots. Same thing applies to fire forming cases for improved or wildcat cartridges. Just firing rounds down a barrel to form brass without any regard to their accuracy is a mistake. It is a waste of time and barrel life. http://www.shilen.com/faq.html#question10 Let me add: always use a BORE GUIDE when cleaning from the breech. |
It's all non-sense.
Hi,Ive tried it both ways and have seen no difference.Try this link from 1997, www.yarchive.net/gun/barrel/break_in.html I know even the big producers recommend it but I have found it unproductive. If it works for you God Bless, Regards,Mike
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Re: It's all non-sense.
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However, think of this - most modern rifles (99%) have much harder steel than a century ago. The Rockwell hardness of modern barrels is at least twice as strong as the early models made around 1900. And keep in mind that we use mostly non-corrosive primers which trumps the 'pitting' theory of sealing the barrel, etc. Perhaps a Break-In is required for 100-yr old rifles (if New) but we'll never get that opportunity (outside of finding unissued pieces in an Armory). :wink: |
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